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You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Oil pressure gauge installation. All 1G 2. Apparantly the heads had slightly smaller coolant passages, but the difference is not enough to be significant. Also, prepared non-turbo heads had a plug where the turbo oil feed would connect on turbo models. So far no one has done this swap.
The change is not attractive since 2G turbo pistons have a higher compression ratio 8. Also, since 1G rods must be modified to accept 2G pistons, it is safe to assume that 2G rods would either have to be modified to accept 1G pistons, or replaced with 1G rods, making any such swap that much more complicated.
Anyone interested in such changeovers should know that Mitsubishi sells factory overbore pistons in sizes 0.
Ben France gives the details here. Not so far. This modification is not likely to be popular, since the 2G engine is more expensive than a 1G engine. Also, it has other characteristics such as a smaller stock turbocharger that may make it unattractive to 1G owners. Anyone wishing to attempt this swap should be warned that it is not trivial.
Although many of the mechanical attachments will work correctly, some 2G engine sensors operate differently than 1G sensors, making it virtually impossible to use without an ECU and wiring swap as well. You would already know this hint, hint if you had looked at the FAQ Locator. Alexander Shikhmuradov, Lowell Foo, and John Christou among others have done this, and helpfully provided instructions to Eric Porter, who made this Mini How-To page of how to do the wiring.
However, Keith McDonnell reported that the 2G MAS will operate almost perfectly with the stock 1G computer when larger cc injectors are also fitted. The bigger injectors add more fuel to offset the additional 'uncounted' air flowing through the larger MAS. Keith was experimenting on a Galant VR-4, , which could possibly behave slightly differently than other DSMs, but his results were confirmed second-hand by Dallace Marable.
For more details, read his Keith's post here. Those who do this changeover might have to grind away a small part of the 2G manifold to clear the 1G engine parts. Jason Neal had this done with his car, buying a engine to put into his FWD. Details on how he did it can be read here. Changing the 2G cylinder head for the 1G version has also been done. Road Race Engineering has done this swap to a few cars. Besides checking out their web site article, read Mike's archive post on the subject, and his subsequent follow-up post.
Josh Rivel also successfully did this swap, although it took a lot of tuning to get the engine operating correctly. Also, Todd Hayashi posted a list of potential gotchas while doing this conversion, and Nathan Crisman described a changeover kit he once had for sale here.
Unfortunately, he never had a chance to use it. Finally, there is an excellent photo gallery walk-though of installing a 1G head onto a 2G here , courtesy of Shawn Gradek.
The photography on this site is worth any download time you may encounter. Those who are seriously interested in this type of changeover must read the archives on the subject to obtain the latest information. However, there may be some restrictions on their use.
Stock DSM oxygen sensors include a heating element that allows them to heat up to operating temperature faster, especially in cold weather. It is almost certain that a large number of owners have oxygen sensors with broken heaters.
They don't notice the lack because the heater is not essential for O2 sensor operation. At worst, the oxygen sensor will take some additional time to heat up to operating temperature, and gas mileage might drop a little bit. So two of the four wires on the O2 sensor may certainly be considered optional, especially for those living in warmer climates.
The one wire on the non-DSM sensor is the oxygen sensor signal. Since there is no ground wire, the sensor must use the mounting point as ground. There is a small possiblity that this point might not be a good ground on some cars.
Cars with upgraded downpipes might be suspect, as there is a grounding strap on the OEM downpipe that is frequently removed during the upgrade. This may affect the ground reference of the oxygen sensor to some extent. Even in the worst-case scenario, this is highly unlikely to affect the operation of a stock or near-stock DSM. The precise reading of the oxygen sensor is not important, and is not used by the engine computer, so the ECU will not 'see' any shift in ground potential on the single-wire O2 sensor.
Owners of upgraded cars who use the O2 sensor for tuning purposes might have to be a little more careful. In many cases, owners rely on their oxygen sensors providing a consistent if not accurate reading.
A shift of 0. Thus, individuals who switch to a 1-wire sensor may have to spend some time re-learning their tuning methods to compensate for any differences in the new setup. Owners with upgraded cars will hopefully have better and more reliable methods than relying on their O2 sensor. Quick answers: - stock fuel system, pump gas: 15 psi, or an O2 sensor reading of 0. You will probably hit fuel cut first. Here's why. You'll need a fuel management system before you can do much of anything more than that.
Owing to individual variations between cars, the 0. Most people prefer 0. Detailed answers: By changing the intake pressure in your car, you are changing the mass of air entering the engine. Therefore, the 'safe' amount of boost on any DSM is primarily determined by the fuel delivery system in the car. Also, local factors will change the actual mass of air entering the engine, which again changes the required fuel.
Under all circumstances, remember this simple rule: intake air pressure does not equal intake air flow. Flow is what matters. The amount of boost pressure you can run without risking damage to your engine depends on the following factors:. There may be other factors that affect maximum intake pressure.
Those interested in a more detailed discussion can read Morgan D'Antonio's post about what limits boost levels on DSMs. In the above list, the fuel pump and fuel injectors determine the amount of fuel that can be delivered to the engine in a given time.
Aftermarket pumps and larger injectors increase fuel delivery capacity. Turbo and intercooler efficiency determines the temperature of the air going into the engine at any given pressure.
Lower temperatures reduce combustion temperatures, but also increase the actual mass of air entering the cylinders. Colder ambient temperatures also increase air mass.
Higher altitude cars, though, have less dense air to push than sea level cars, meaning less air mass enters the engine. MAS modifications introduce an additional element of error into the mass air calculations done by the ECU. Because the ECU, under some conditions, does not check to see that the amount of fuel provided is adequate to safely operate the engine, the operator must monitor the engine operation.
Most 'free' mods do not change the MAS operation enough to cause problems, but there is always a small possibility of engine damage, as well as idle and misfire problems. Gasoline octane is important in that it also reduces the occurance of knock.
Running too much boost on bad gasoline with leave your engine pinging like crazy, forcing the ECU to cut boost and reduce timing, thereby losing power. The rule, accoding to leading DSM performance authorities, is to run at least 0. This corresponds to exhaust gas temperatures of about degrees F maximum.
Failure to observe these limits will often result in melted engine parts. The addition of other mods does not generally change this figure, provided the intake pressure remains at 15 psi maximum. This is the level that most owners run in their cars, at least until further upgrades are possible.
For those not operating near sea level, the 'safe' boost you can run seems to increase by about 1 psi 0. For example, a car at ' over sea level can safely run as much as 18 psi of boost. This rule is less reliable than the above 15psi rule, though, since high-altitude owners are understandably reluctant to repeat the boost-related engine damage experienced by some unlucky sea-level owners.
Those owners with upgraded fuel pumps may also run higher boost levels than 15 psi. Moving to higher boost levels without at least one of these instruments can be hazardous to your cars health. Provided you meet the above-mentioned 0.
It should be noted, however, that the stock DSM turbochargers are pretty much incapable of making more power somewhere around the psi level. Above this limit, the turbocharger heats the intake air so much during compression that any power gained from additional air density is lost.
Many people have reported this effect, which leads to less power at higher boost pressures. Also, higher boost pressures exact more stress on the engine components, regardless of the air mass.
After all, 18 psi is still higher than 15 psi. Owners that run pressures higher than 15 psi may experience failures on other components that cannot take the stress. One good example is the intake manifold gasket, which was made of rubber in cars, and sometimes cannot handle the increased pressure. Fortunately, the replacement gasket is metal.
Those interested in the factors responsible for limiting boost should read Morgan D'Antonio's take on what really limits your boost levels on a DSM. Owners of newly upgraded turbochargers often find, to their dismay, that they experience a severe loss of power at the same boost levels they ran with the old turbo. Too much air is entering the engine, leading to low O2 sensor readings, high EGTs, even severe knocking under acceleration.
The only solution to this problem besides lowering boost, or removing the turbo upgrade is to purchase a fuel management computer of some type.
These devices allow the owner to 'trick' the ECU and manually adjust the fuel delivery back to correct levels. Owners which already have a fuel computer installed should run a mimimum of 0. Exceeding these values may result in engine damage.
There have been many 'safe' O2 sensor readings reported for DSMs. However, there is a growing consensus that O2 readings alone are not enough to guarantee safe operation of the engine. DSM oxygen sensors should be thought of as more akin to oxygen 'thermostats'. They are designed to 'switch' states, from high to low, very rapidly, around the oxygen level that corresponds to a stoichiometric As long as they do this, there is no reason for them to be accurate anywhere else.
However, the oxygen sensors may not be accurate at these levels, so any readings that are taken must be treated with caution. Evidence to this effect is growing thanks to the introduction of the TMO datalogger , which gathers information about engine operation directly from the ECU. This is due to differences in the grounding points of the two devices, and can easily lead to a 0. Their fast reaction time and simplicity make them an excellent choice for monitoring relatively safe, early-stage modifications to DSMs.
They simply have limitations that make them less-than-ideal for precision engine tuning, and new users need to be aware of them. Having said all of that, authorities in the field have stated that 0. This is because differences in engines, altitude, barometric pressure, gasoline, and other conditions all contribute towards varying this number.
The only sure method by which anyone can state that they must run a certain minimum O2 reading is if they have determined the perfect level for their individual car through experimentation. This type of experimentation is time-consuming. Many racers spend years perfecting their setups.
No - this is normal. You are viewing the ECUs attempts to supply exactly the right amount of fuel to the engine to achieve stoichiometric operation equal masses of fuel and air. The cycling also means your O2 sensor is healthy. If this occurs at idle, or during prolonged periods of idling, the oxygen sensor is likely too cold to cycle properly. Warming up the engine somewhat will raise the sensor temperature into a normal operating range.
While DSM oxygen sensors are equipped with a heater to aid in keeping the sensor hot, many people find the heater is either broken or simply not adequate to the task of keeping the oxygen sensor hot. If this occurs during normal cruising speeds, your oxygen sensor may be on its last legs.
Poor cycling is often an early symptom of impending sensor failure. On the other hand, the O2 sensor reading is supposed to peg high under acceleration. This is because the ECU no longer cares about the oxygen sensor reading, and supplies extra fuel to keep the engine cool. This is known as open-loop operation. The method of changing fuel delivery based on the oxygen sensor signal which causes O2 readout cycling is called closed-loop operation.
If you just started your car, the oxygen sensor is cold, and will not give any reading for a little while. This can also happen if the car has been idling for a long period of time. Also, if you have removed the lower honeycomb from your MAS, your oxygen sensor reading at idle will likely drop to zero or almost zero at idle.
This is a common side-effect of removing the lower honeycomb, and does not represent a problem. This effect is only affects O2 sensor readings at idle, and will not change the sensor or car behavior while cruising or while accelerating.
The ECU only checks the oxygen sensor under specific circumstances. If it doesn't get to check the sensor, it can't tell if the sensor is dead. At least for the 1Gs - this probably got a lot tighter for 2Gs.
This is why a lot of people won't ever see a code get thrown for O2 in their daily commute driving. It also varies somewhat from car to car. In the past , HKS has recommended that downpipe installations not exceed degF, and pre-turbo exhaust manifold installations not exceed degF. Do yourself a favor and get a datalogger. EGTs are nice, but they're not the be-all of engine monitoring - not by a long shot.
If plug fouling occurs, go one step hotter and monitor performance and results. Except for 'trick' plugs, DSMers have used many brands with good results. NGKs appear to the be the most often-reported favorite. This is only a legitimate question for owners, as the shop manual had a mistake in the plug gapping specifications. The correct numbers are listed, but they are switched around between the turbo and non-turbo cars.
According to TSBs and , the correct gap for turbo cars is 0. Some owners experience idle or misfire problems after installing platinum plugs. Others use them with no ill effects. Most owners prefer to stick with the non-platinum plugs.
Problems seem to be more prevalent on turbo cars. With few exceptions, spark plug wires either work, or they don't. As with the 'trick' spark plugs described above, nobody has been able to prove a performance gain by using larger-than-normal or unconventional spark plug wires.
They continue to be a popular upgrade, however, with Magnecores being mentioned the most often. Owing to a number of owners who have experienced longevity problems with cheaper wires, it is possible that the superior build quality of the larger wires means they will last longer than 'normal' wires.
This, in itself, would be a reason to get bigger wires, since replacing wires every months isn't any fun. Also, plug wires can sometimes be tricky to diagnose, since tests will sometimes fail to reveal the wires are no good. Nology and others manufacture 'special' wires that are supposed to provide better performance. Dennis Grant has some things to say about 'trick' plug wires. You should also read the rest of the series.
Most Digesters concur with Dennis that 'trick' wires fall in into the category of 'magic' products. While this post is from the Volvo forum: What is a Wideband, and why do I need it? And Basic tuning tips [ archive copy ], it is a good read and applies to turbo cars. Use stock Mitsubishi bolts and turbo washers.
Thanks Salomon Ponte Also make sure to use Nickel based anti seize on any bolt you put in. If stock bolts break, they are easier to drill out than some of the stonger non Mitsubishi bolts. With the extreme temperatures these bolts see, if you want extra peace of mind, do not re-use turbo bolts and can replace with new Mitsubishi stockers every time you crack them loose to remove the turbo not cheap!
You can also refer to : What size bolt do I need for X part? Mitsubishi Parts : MD would be used on a Style sensor. There is one in there that fits perfectly and has worked for me. It come sin a pack of 8 I believe, varying in sizes. The gasket on the front of the housing 3 bolt is part number MD You already have the other seal for the CAS itself MD , so the only other seal is on the back side where it seals to the head.
If you're getting leakage out of the front cover, I would probably not only fix the 3-bolt cover gasket, but reseal the RTV on the rear where it sits against the head. I grabbed a used one that was sitting back in the parts bin please excuse the child-like use of Paint. You can see in the 2nd picture arrow where the groove is that you need to RTV.
You should be oil-free after that. It's been reviewed by the experts and creators of DSMLink for accuracy. It is not intended to teach you, or tell you, everything needed to tune a DSM. Research will be required to fully understand the terms, values, and procedures below. With that said, the people involved with any and all aspects of this guide are NOT responsible for ANY damage done to your car.
Before You Start:. Others are simply values to monitor and keep within given parameters. A combustion chamber cleaner cleans carburetors, intake manifolds, intake and exhaust valves, pistons and combustion chambers. It also removes deposits, eliminates carbon knock and restores performance.
The following directions outline the way that professional mechanics have been using the cleaner for years -- they were finally published in TSB for Jeep 4. There are quite a few things that could cause this.
Check the Power Transistor Unit. Diagnosing a No-Start This guide is obviously not meant to offer a complete list of things that could be keeping your car from starting. However, checking these things BEFORE posting your problem will help us better understand your situation, and give you a better chance of getting the right advice very quickly. The DSM Gods must be angry with you. For quick reference, I have sectioned this article off into the basic problem areas by symptom.
Check your battery terminals and cables. Loose, corroded, or broken battery terminals or cables will drain your battery. If the car cranks very slowly, your battery may have some juice left. If not, it may be completely dead. Red probe goes to the positive post; black probe goes to the negative post. If battery voltage reads low anything lower than 12 volts is low!
This could be due to any number of things. Did you leave an interior light on by mistake? Are your battery terminals loose or corroded?
Did your battery ground out on an aftermarket strut bar? Is your alternator going bad? Most of these chains offer free battery testing and free charging especially if you bought your battery from them. If you have an Automatic, is the car in Park or Neutral? Refer to FSM for proper testing procedure, or just unplug it.
When you turn the key, do you hear the starter click? If not, time to check it. Refer to FSM for complete testing procedure. Check the starter relay first. On a 1g, this is located under the dash, to the immediate left of the steering column.
With KOEO and clutch depressed, battery voltage should be present at the relay. On a 2g, the starter relay is located near the radio. Check the Alternator fuse 80A in a 1g, A in a 2g. This is located in the main fuse box under the hood, and should be the largest fuse in there, making it easy to spot. See image below for location 6.
Pull the upper cover off of your timing belt and make sure you have not snapped or damaged the timing belt. If you are at all in doubt about the condition of the belt, pull it out and replace it.
If there is any possibility that you could have jumped timing, run a compression test to verify if or, more likely, how many valves were bent. Try spraying some starter fluid into the cylinders and try to turn the car over. If the car will start, you are most likely not getting fuel.
Start by removing the fuel line from the filter passenger side of the rail Careful! Keep your face away from the fuel line, and wear protective eye gear. Imagine sticking your face in front of a bottle of champagne before uncorking it. Get the idea? In a normally operating fuel system, plenty of clean gasoline should fill the bottle pretty quickly. If nothing comes out at all, you will need to make sure your fuel pump is turning on.
Open the fuel filler door and remove the filler cap. Have a friend put his or her ear up to the filler hole and listen as you crank the car in a 1g, you have to crank it!
You can also power the fuel pump via the check connector. Stock fuel pumps will emit a faint buzzing or whining noise when they turn on. Larger aftermarket pumps especially Walbro will usually be loud enough for you to clearly hear inside the car yourself.
Possible reasons for this include a faulty fuel pump, disconnected or damaged wiring to the pump, or a faulty MPI relay, among a few other things. Measure the resistance at the injector clips with your DVOM. Resistance should read ohms at the injectors, and the clips should be receiving battery voltage while cranking.
Take a long, rubber-topped screwdriver and place the metal end on top of each injector, and your ear on the other. The ECU may also be at fault here, or the wiring to the injectors may be damaged. Checking for Spark: Before checking for spark, first remove and inspect your spark plugs. Are they improperly gapped or have they been fouled by age, improper fuel mixture, etf? If so, replace them and try to start the car again.
Place the plug and plug wire onto the valve cover and have a friend crank the car. Do you see spark arcing onto the valve cover? If so, the wires are damaged and must be replaced. Next, check resistance at the coil. Specs differ by year, so refer to your FSM for the specs for your particular vehicle. One final culprit could be the CAS. These differ by year as well, so again, refer to FSM for appropriate testing procedure and specifications.
Has your car been sitting for any length of time? Drain the gas tank via the drain plug on the bottom of the tank, and remove the tank refer to FSM for exact removal instructions. Remember to remove the fuel pump and all related electrical connectors first. Is the problem especially bad after the car has sat overnight, or on a cold day? M20 x 1.
Four sizes are available for the perfect fit for just about any engine application and stays water-tight to prevent leaks with the provided hose clamps. It has excellent resistance to: abrasion, moisture, alkalies, acid, copper corrosion and varying weather conditions. Sold Per Foot. Sad face. Pressure changes are calculated on a true linear volt scale via a specially designed silicon pressure sensor that also compensates for temperature changes. MD, MD I have chosen the pillar pod.
For the gauge lighting read on. That's it, you are now done except for tie wrapping the loose air tubing. You can also find the brass hardware adapter, T, connectors, etc.
When you mentioned tapping the fuel pressure solenoid, you spoke of a calibrated sic - orifice or assembly easing - "widget". Would this be located on the driver's side of the car? Yes, I was referring to a black nylon male-male connector, kinda like a tube with nipples on either end, joining the vacuum line near the solenoid.
Note that this is only for my car - it may not be installed in your car different model year cars will differ in small details like this. Also note that there are two solenoids on my TSi, one of the solenoid does have a rectangular looking "plug" which is actually a vent to the atmosphere - do not tamper with this part! It is not the correct one to work with - read on. When I look at my car, I see this plug covering the nipple with no hoses coming out that side of the solenoid.
If I have found what you were speaking of, what do I then use the T fitting mentioned in your post? It would seem as though I could connect my gauge directly to this nipple. Let me give you some better directions to assure your success.. Find an object on the driver's side of fuel rail its on the end of the fuel rail that looks like a tin can it's the fuel rail pressure regulator that has a vacuum line and a rubber fuel line connected to it.
Trace the thin vacuum line back to the solenoid located on the driver's side of the firewall. Now, the line that feeds into that solenoid from the intake manifold is the one that you want to tap into tap into the line anywhere it is convenient only make sure it is in between the solenoid and the intake manifold!
It happened to be that on my car, on that line located near to the solenoid, there was a black nylon male-male connector installed which I replaced with my vacuum line T. I imagine that this connector was either to supply a calibrated orifice or to facilitate assembly of the car when the engine is installed - hence my reference in my original note and yes, I believe it is just an assembly facilitating widget since everything is working fine..
One last thing, flexible nylon tubing should be tied down every six inches since over time they harden and will crack if they are flexing too much. If you did get one with copper pipe, just go to any well stocked automotive store and get the tubing kit. That way the gauge will be removable without having to remove the pod. Also leave some slack in your installation to pull the gauge out to work on.
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